In Kununurra, we soaked up the Kimberley’s beauty. We skinned shins and knees clambering over jagged escarpments in Mirrima National Park, Simon protecting his precious camera. We hiked into the Packsaddle ranges, Matey racing ahead as we picked our way in the heat over sharp rocks. At the end of the climb, we sloughed off streaky layers of sweat and dust under an icy waterfall while Matey swam in something like ecstasy in its deep pool. At Cape Dommet, on the edge of the Timor Sea, I walked on the deserted beach and a single long-legged brolga went ahead of me, as if inviting me to follow. We steamed mud crabs over an open fire, and I pierced my finger on the sharp shells as we pulled them apart and sucked out the juicy meat. We ate fresh, fat mangoes for breakfast every morning, their sw
