2Twenty-four hours later, we finally arrived in Katmandu. It was early morning and what a way to wake up. Whining dogs, dingling bicycles, screeching brakes. Everyone seemed to be honking or shaking fists at someone, except for our driver, who stared straight ahead into the stalled traffic, with a soft smile as if meditating. “Talk about having your head spun around,” I said. We were stopped behind a cow that was taking his time crossing the road. On the sidewalks, scores of people leaned against stone walls. Some held out their hands for money, others slept, oblivious to the chaos that surrounded them. “I’ve never seen anything like this,” said Mom. One man played vigorously on a drum, then stopped, covered his ears and rocked back and forth, as if in pain. Two barefoot children sat n

