The more they explored the surrounding bush, the more forlorn they became. Evidence of human progress and occupation seemed to be around every corner and waiting over every hill. To the north, a track lead to a fire-break cutting through the forest. In the other directions, they ran into cleared land enclosed by wire fences. Russet and white Hereford cattle grazed nonchalantly in the paddocks. The gravel roads beside these paddocks seemed wider, better graded and more frequently travelled. Once they had exhausted all promising tracks that were within walking distance of their campsite, they continued to explore further afield in Ivan’s Landcruiser. After a few minutes, they were driving along great, steep hills that lead into Alpine National Park. “Lots of pristine national park along th

