Slowly, George lost his nervousness, and enjoyed the panorama. “T’ bigger ships—them as works up this far—lays on t’ buoys or on t’ wharves,” the boatman explained. “T’ lightermen unloads them as is on t’ moorin’s, an’ t’ stevedores does them as is alongside, see?” A cluster of lighters around a large collier brig showed various states of lading while whips from the ship’s yards hoisted the cargo of coal from her hold. “Ain’t it easier ter unload at t’ wharf—like we does wi’ t’ barge?” “O’ course, lad. But there ain’t enough wharves, an’ some of t’ ships is too deep or too big ter lay alongside when t’ tide falls, see.” He kept up his commentary as they passed various landmarks, pointing out the lock for St Katherine’s Dock, the water gate to the Tower of London and the dome of St Pau

