Chapter 7 Provincia di Reggio, Calabria, Italy Marco WE ARRIVED AT the ‘inn’ a little before five, as it had taken much longer than predicted to navigate the many sharp curves and switchbacks in the highway through the mountains. It turned out to be more like a glorified bed-and-breakfast establishment than an inn, and Dani and I were escorted to a decent-size room on the second floor. The room contained a pair of twin beds pushed together in the middle of the room, in the manner typical of small European hotels, and surprisingly, it was en suite. “‘I suppose we’ve done better’,” Dani said, mimicking the aging actress portrayed by Geraldine Page in Sweet Bird of Youth. “‘God knows, we’ve done worse’.” “Dani,” I said, “at least it’s clean and the beds look comfortable.” I sat down on

