Los Angeles We made damn good time, and, on the fourth day—after driving through deserts and mountains—we hit Los Angeles, sprawled out before us not long after we crested the rise out of Palm Springs. Everybody used to talk about Palm Springs as if it were a destination, when it wasn’t much more than a hot, dry town in the desert where the wealthy went to play. Once we got to the city, it didn’t take long to locate a motel close to where we needed to be, and we settled in for a rest. Everyone was tired, despite having had taken turns driving. Even riding makes you tired, especially if you can’t sleep, and more so when you need the air conditioner running at close to maximum just to make the temperature tolerable. After a few cups of coffee, we pulled out notes, and a map we had picked

