The farmhouse had walls three feet thick, a staunch reminder of what it took to live around there and what I refused to get used to: the wind, the dust, the heat, the excoriating sun. I"ve been on the island two and a half weeks, and I am still not sure what attracts visitors to that locale. The island itself, I can understand. Winter sun, beaches galore, plenty of space and a safe, laid-back atmosphere. It"s the Canary Islands" tourist mecca of Fuerteventura. Most of the tourists are corralled in enclaves along the east coast. There, on that barren plain where the ocean views are cut off by hills, and a range of mountains separates the inhabitants from the more populated areas, there cannot be described as anything other than inhospitable. Yet there people dwell; the holiday let, the last

