For Arabella and George
Warm thanks to Christine Wilding, Alan Gordon and Cristine Mackie for their invaluable proofreading, and especially to Mary Chipperfield, my friend and for many years my teacher, for hers.
My special thanks to Robert Pitt, who first introduced me to Greece and the great delights of its past, its cuisine and its wine, and who showed me the Towers of the Mani.
Most of all, thanks to Alan and Alastair for their constant love and support.