Milan, 23 October 1816, 2 p.m. Osteria della Commenda, Corso di Porta Romana 4591 The storied, catch-all name of osteria in Milan indicated a public place in which to eat and drink with its own signpost in iron or wood outside. These inns ─ in dialect ─ were simple bœucc that were testament to each age and present on every road, used mainly for the dispensation of wine. From these shacks came, after some centuries, hostelries with lodging for visitors and shelter for beasts; then came the true osterie worthy of the name, providing delicious dishes and wines without dilution as well as cordial Milanese hospitality. Some of these, like the celebrated Osteria dei Tre Re, also acted as a mail delivery service to and from foreign states, with their courtyards resembling a latterly railw

