Oh, it's so beautiful. That's my first thought as we finally enter the cemetery and move slowly into its depths. The train track is on a kind of wide avenue - the kind that I imagine that they have in Paris and, it's lined each side with lush sequoia trees, making me feel like we've entered an enchanted forest rather than a place for the dead. For the moment, there's no sign of any gravestones or mausoleums and, for a second, I experience a feeling of peace so profound that I feel like just closing my eyes and going to sleep but, then it passes, as such things always do. It seems like the whole train, not just the passengers, but the train itself is silent as we glide ever onward until, just up ahead, I spot the first of the many many rows of simple grave markers. I've seen pictures of mil

