30 Ghosts Of Berlin I hit street level again but took a left when I should have gone right towards the Brandenburg Gate area. After wandering around in a circle through some identikit residential streets, I broke out into a clearing that took me by surprise. It was a huge, eerie space free of any buildings, sloping down towards a swathe of dense parkland. Thousands of big, dark-grey concrete blocks sat at different depths and angles. I couldn’t work out if it looked like a huge cemetery full of nameless tombstones, or something alien out of a sci-fi film. My phone told me it was the Field of Stelae, a memorial to the Jewish lives lost during the h*******t. I set off through the blocks, each no more than waist-high. I saw a few people here and there, roaming, sitting, taking it in. Yet, a

