On the Road to SalinaThe maddening curves and switchbacks are the best thing and the worst thing about roads in rural Italy, but driving them is never dull. The Maserati is very maneuverable, so I hugged the outside of my lane, trying to make room for the sudden appearance of a wild driver coming too hard from the other direction around a curve with little concern for safety. The ground rose up through the hills, then down again in a roller-coaster ride that is more thrill than fear, and suddenly I was winding my way down into the rolling green valley below.
Most of the land was covered with vineyards, an unending stretch of lines of vines bearing fruit that would soon be bottled as some of the world's most sought-after wines.
Perched atop hills to my left and my right were small cluster
