24. “We need better transport,” I say to Sameh, as he weaves in and out of the slow moving vehicles, making his way to the above-ground highway that will lead us some of the way to the Giza urban interior. “What do you suggest we do?” he says. “Go car shopping?” “Cairo’s too hot. We need something that will take us into the desert. A four-by-four. A truck, van, suburban … Something, anything. But not this.” “Hold onto the wheel,” Sameh instructs. “What? In this traffic?” “Just hold the wheel please, Chase. Traffic is light today.” This is what he calls light? I reach over and do it. He’s still got his foot on the gas, so I’m doing my best to avoid smashing into the slower moving cars that we are constantly tailing. Using only my left hand, I turn the wheel to the right, t

