37. It’s going on midnight when we pull up to the main entry for the Giza pyramids. While the colorful pyramid spotlighting has been turned off, the entry facility is still lit up like a Christmas tree with pole and wall-mounted LED security lighting. Sameh pulls up to a security shack and stops the Land Cruiser so that the front grill faces a red and black vertically striped crossing gate. The guard manning the brightly lit, glass and concrete block-walled shack is wearing the black beret, scarf, and white shirt of a government soldier. He’s packing a 9mm automatic on his hip. Mounted to the wall behind him are four AK47s at the ready. Before Sameh can even get the window down, two more soldiers step up to the gate and eyeball us through the windshield. The window slides open

