The closer we get to the wall, the more impressive it becomes. But my surprise peaks as soon as the gate opens. A huge square slowly becomes visible and the noise of the activity gets louder and louder. ‘Normally the gate is always open during the day. We close them at night because then the patrols are reduced to a minimum. Or when I’m away offcourse.’ ‘So anyone can just walk in?’ He starts laughing. ‘No, of course not. Do you see those 2 groups of men?’ And he points to 2 geoups of each around 5 men on both sides of the entrance. ‘They check everyone who enters. Around the wall there are both visible and invisible guards, so that we always have a view of the plain in front of us.’ I look around me intently as Tristan is met with loud shouts and laughter. After a few meters we sud

