Mum and Ru leave at seven the next morning and head over to the car hire shop, while dad and I pack up everything and book out of the hotel, with the sour knowledge that we won’t be returning until this is all over. As planned, I’m dressed in Ru’s clothes and Dad’s wearing typical tourist clothes: loud, vibrant and complete with sun lotion, camera and a hat that’s far too big. We make our way to a local convenience shop to buy supplies for when we’re in the desert, including copious bottles of water and a tub of sea salt in case the rehydration salts mum already packed aren’t enough. “Do you know if any of these, uh, spies, are watching us?” he whispers as we turn a corner to get to the road where mum and Ru are supposed to meet us. I cast my mind around. Several birds are flocking on th

