THE BLUE BOTTLE CAFÉ
If you don’t know where to find it, you’ll never find it. You need someone to take you there. It’s down a long, slightly twisting and unlit passageway off Rynok Square off of Ruska Vulytsia, Rus Street, the 19th century name for Ukrainians – deep, deep in the bowels of the building – one of the intriguing three-story buildings just off the square. You step in a shallow pothole here and there in spots as you stumble through until your eyes get used to the light. There’s a tall inner courtyard above you in the very middle of the passageway with iron ladders and overhangs. No one looking down from above. A bit too cold yet for that this time of year in ljutyj, the “fierce” month of February. Your traveling companion is the sister of your friend Anya who’s doing graduate
