8
Go Pro
Duck dive
To dive under an oncoming wave to avoid rolling up on the beach, spitting sand.
I was sitting under my umbrella on a picnic table on the hillside above the pavilion at Keikikai beach, my new kite and a sketchbook near me. From my perch I could see most of Keikikai’s calm shoreline, all along the lava divider to Piko Point, and across to Nalupuki beach where the waves were pumping a righteous six to eight feet. It was windy on the hillside—good for flying kites, not so good for watching surfers and drawing. On high Blalah alert, I scanned the area.
No Blalahs in sight. Good. They’re too lazy to walk uphill just to hassle me.
I think.
I hope.
At Nalupuki, Jay was paddling out to the line-up where the waves were swelling, rising to break inside the reef. He was trai
