37
One Shark, No Bite
Shaka
A hello or howzit hand gesture made with thumb and pinkie extended, other fingers folded.
With one last push, Jay crested the wave, the wind blowing spray back into his face. He flicked his hair back and paddled on, coming to rest at the end of the surfers’ line.
“What’s up, Frankie,” he said.
“You made it! Howzit!” Frankie said. He pointed with his chin. “Look. Nili-boy’s behind you.”
Coming through the last break before the swells smoothed out, Nili-boy raised a hand, flashing shaka. He cruised over the top of the last roller and headed toward them.
Frankie, eyeing the first wave of a new set, turned toward the shore, and starting paddling into position.
“This one’s mine,” he called. “Weeehaa!”
Jay slid down the backside as the face of the wave forme
