Chapter Four
The c***k of the cap coming off was the best thing I’d heard all day. I tipped the bottle up and drained half of it before I took a breath.
“Thirsty?” Kapena asked with his trademark grin. The man liked to show off his teeth.
“Yeah. I need something besides the Pacific Ocean to drink.”
Kapena laughed loudly, the blast bouncing off the walls. I couldn’t help but smile with him.
“I think you need a few more lessons before I can consider you a student of mine. You’re pretty much an embarrassment to surfing right now.”
I nodded. “I’ll give you that.”
Kapena flipped the salmon on the grill and took a swig of his beer. “The more you do it, the easier it’ll get.”
“How old were you when you learned to surf?”
“Learned? Nah, man. You don’t learn to surf in Hawaii. It’s in the b
