29. A few kilometers from Espinosa del Camino, Oliver, Mary and Jasmine along with other walkers are sitting outside at a bar. Oliver and Jasmine just toasted with their beer bottles and now they do it with the others too. Mary, on the other hand, is secluded and putting cream on her face. They haven't seen us yet. We approach and greet everyone in Italian. A boy and a girl with a Calabrian accent ask us in unison: «Where are you from?». St gives the usual answer. «We are Calabrians, from Lamezia Terme to be precise. Sit with us for a drink» she invites us. We join them. I order two orange juices and they all look at me with a strange attitude. Oliver, ironic, says something in his own language, perhaps Swedish or Dutch. For a few seconds it is only the rattle of the bottles that ech

