Chapter 10 South Asian Sampler
528 Words
Like Chinese cuisine, the delights of South Asian food are a universe unto themselves, especially here where every region is amply represented. Relaxed and dependable are Curry Twist (3034 Dundas St. W., 416-769-5460, currytwist.com), Sher-E-Punjab (351 Danforth Ave., 416-465-2125), and Woodlands (177 College St., 416-593-7700). More elegant are the lovely Indian Rice Factory (414 Dupont St., 416-961- 3472), Kama Classical Indian Cuisine (214 King St. W., 416-599-5262), and Cuisine of India (5222 Yonge St., 416-229-0377). Bar-be-que Hut (1455 Gerrard St. E., 416-466-0411) is the temple of the tandoor, featuring oven-baked meats like the dear but delectable shrimp tikka. You can enjoy similar cuisine of Pakistan under the colourful tent at Lahore Tikka House (1365 Gerrard St. E., 416-406-1668). Seriously spicy Tamil fare reigns at Rashnaa (307 Wellesley St. E., 416-929-2099), while unassuming little Kabul Kebab House (1324 Gerrard St. E., 416-466-6000) prepares the cuisine of Afghanistan: meat kebabs, cinnamon- spiced rice, and the filling steamed dumplings known as mantoo. For delicate and unusual spicing, we think the prize might have to go to Elixir (522 Bloor St. W., 416-597-2915), with its Persian/Indian fusion. And then there's the streetside snack trade. We haven't found better samosas than those at Narula's Chat, Dosa & Thali House (1438-A Gerrard St. E., 416-466-0434). The crispy, chewy, delicately-seasoned vegetarian pockets are baked fresh about once a week, but not on a particular day; just, we're told, "whenever we run out. In the same neighbourhood there's a lively competition among several paan houses, all open late, usually blaring bhangra and surrounded by knots of young fellows on the sidewalk. The attractions? Barbecued corn with hot spices and lime juice, the Indian ice cream known as kulfi, and paan, a blend of ingredients like cumin, candied anise, slivered betel nut, and tobacco, all wrapped up in a betel leaf. Paan is meant to be chewed at leisure like a tobacco plug, and it produces a similarly juicy effect; it's also a mild stimulant. Lahore Paan Centre (1431 Gerrard St. E., 416-462-3293) is one of the most thriving paan locations.
QUEEN VANIPHA
LAHORE
PAAN CENTREلا
PURI
It's a dramatic instance of the ill wind that blows good. In 1980, would-be medical professional Vanipha Southalack arrived from Laos as a refugee and promptly, with members of her family, took charge of the kitchens of the newly-opened Rivoli and Queen Mother, just as Queen West was beginning to buzz. In those days, Thai food was so little known that the BamBoo Club menu featured "Thai Spicy Noodles" rather than "Pad Thai." But with the influx of fugitives from the horrible political situations of Cambodia and neighbouring areas, Toronto quickly
learned the taste for spring rolls,
satay, and other Thai and Laotian treats. Southalack pioneered Vanipha in Kensington Market-now Ban Vanipha (638 Dundas St. W., 416- 340-0491). Among the many other places that rode the lemongrass wave, we've always had a soft spot for Satay on the Road (2306 Queen St. E., 416-698-8618; 1570- 1572 Bayview Ave., 416-440-0679; 2003 Avenue Rd., 416-488-5153, satayontheroad.com). Also, the coconut soup is good at Somporn Thai Cuisine (2961 Dundas St. W., 416-604-0062) but we'll confess we
just enjoy getting to say the name.
- Writer
