14 It takes the rickshaw a few minutes to negotiate the busy downtown street to what serves as the Casale Excavation Company. The sinewy driver, who can’t weigh more than one hundred fifteen pounds, pedals with bare feet, the soles of which have certainly turned to leather. He shoots and scoots in between people, cattle, and taxi cabs, creating a plume of dust in his wake. If we’d taken a car, it might have cost us a half an hour to travel the same distance. As predicted, located directly beside the Casale office is a bar. Judging by the red neon mounted to the interior of the establishment’s front picture window, the name of the joint is Rudy’s New Orleans Jazz Revival. Catchy. Dismounting the rickshaw, I pay the man double what he asks for and immediately head to the front

