18 Wishing for the onset of darkness. Because the road to Dumkibas is anything but serene. It’s a mountainous journey, the gravel road is narrow and slick from recent rains. As we drive further into the wilderness, we’re forced to pass black smoke-spitting buses painted in colorful, almost psychedelic patterns. Passing them wouldn’t be so bad if the roads weren’t so narrow, the visibility more than a few feet at most. Pulling out into the lane that supports oncoming traffic, all you can do is hold your breath and pray another bus or truck isn’t presently coming at you from the opposite direction. We drive through small towns made up of little more than shanties of scrap wood and tin. The structures are built onto the mountainside (as opposed to into it) with timbers and logs as

