9 COSTA TEGUISE Standing in the shade of the eucalypt at the café end of the plaza, I observe a few customers as they make up their minds to take an outdoor table in the warm spring sunshine, or opt for the seating shaded by the laurel trees. On Mondays, the village centre is always quiet, even at the intersection of the roads coming down from the north and the south and the road heading east, where cafes take advantage of the passing trade, and where villagers go about the business of the day, frequenting the supermarket, the florist, the town hall or the hardware store. I watch with sudden envy an elderly couple in loose clothing, replete with backpacks and walking shoes, as they head off, probably on their way to the cliff. It's where all the walkers go. The views are breath taking,

