Raquel Bern, Switzerland, is gorgeous. The sparkling water of the Aare River flows and weaves through the heart of the city, a light layer of snow covering the tops of buildings and the numerous bridges. It feels like something out of a fairytale, hints of charming Germanic architecture evident at every turn. The noonday sun is pale, the sky overcast and gray. The arches of my feet throb and I can’t stop shivering from the cold. After abandoning the train, I hiked a good mile or so away from the tracks so I wouldn’t be easily followed. I nearly tripped and sprained my ankle on the rocky terrain too many times to count, but by some miracle I made it into the city undetected. I walk into the first hotel I can find. I don’t care that it’s rundown and on the smaller side. All I want right n

