40 The streets of Bratislava look quite pleasant in the morning sun. I spend about half an hour walking in what I believe to be the general direction of the city centre. I’m careful to walk in a straight line where possible, though, and I’ve memorised the name of the street the hostel is on in case I get lost: Palisády, near the junction with Zochova and Bradlianska. I’ve devised a little song to help me remember it, as well as the image of the hostel being my safe place, a fort with iron fencing – or a palisade – around it. Just to keep things extra safe, I visualise Bradley Walsh, the British quiz show host, standing guard out front. Palisády. Bradlianska. It’s crude, but it’ll do. At least I’ll be able to get back home. Jesus. Home. You know things have gone downhill when you start to

