44 Marek greets me with a warm smile and a bear hug when I get back to the bar, as if I’m a wanderer returning from a long voyage. ‘You came back!’ he says, beaming. ‘Welcome to your new home.’ ‘Thanks,’ I reply, pulling the rucksack off my shoulders. ‘Can I put my stuff upstairs?’ Marek smiles even wider and steps aside, ushering me behind the bar and up the stairs to my room. When we get there, I’m pleasantly surprised. I was expecting something similar to the dreadful room at the hostel, but it’s actually pretty good. It’s less of a room and more of a luxury flat. It’s tastefully decorated, seems to have mostly new appliances and furniture and has a great view out across the streets of Bratislava. ‘This is lovely, Marek,’ I say, looking around. ‘Really nice.’ ‘I’m glad you like.

