VTHE PLACE WAS AN OLD church. From the outside, it looked like someone had built a warehouse right onto the back of it. And we came in through the transept and found our selves on a clear path right over to a long line of tables with two immense soup kettles bolted to the floor, just coming after tables with bread racks. This blond had pulled me right along and now handed me a bowl and large spoon, motioning me along down the line in front of her. I got a couple of dark brown buns and they filled my bowl with some sort of ham and bean soup. As I paused by the end of the kettles, she then came up next to me again. “This way.” She led us to a single dining table with benches on each side, straight ahead of us and away from long rows of these type of tables and benches that lined the main

