Chapter 12I took out my backpack and packed a change of clothes, a black-market phone, my regular passport and my pilgrim passport for the Via Francigena, the old pilgrim trail from England to Rome. The pilgrim passport shows I’m on pilgrimage, and allows me to spend the nights on the trail, in churches, and convents. I went to the kitchen and packed some cheese, salami, dried fruit, and filled the water bottle that attaches to my backpack. Then I went to my office; sitting at my desk I opened the top right drawer and took out a roll of two Euro coins and put them into my backpack. I put on my hiking shoes and headed out the front door. I walked down to Gino’s house and asked him for a ride to the train station in Ivrea.
When he dropped me off at the station, I first went to an internet C
