After their stroll, she and Ian had dinner at KuDeTa, one of the popular venues on Kuta Beach. They selected their own dinner from among the live lobsters with incredibly bright shells, their claws banded shut. In the open kitchen, the chef then split the creatures – who probably deserved a better life – in two with one fell swoop, then cooked them on a grill until their shells turned a burnt red and their meat became a savory white. The food was served with herbal butter and wedges of lemon, and Dóra asked for spicy sauce on the side. Ian only tasted a tiny bit of the fiery-hot sauce, spending several minutes after coughing with a red face. Dóra tried to hide her smile and recalled how her father had always said: “If you’re able to eat it, then you’re stronger than the pepper.” As a child

