Rolling silverware had always been mind-numbing work for Doris, so boring she reduced the practice to a mantra. Napkin, knife, fork, spoon. Tuck, fold, roll. Deposit bundle. Repeat. She placed a knife atop the napkin, fork atop the knife, with the bowl of the spoon resting firmly in the tines of the fork. After tucking the bottom, she would fold over the left side and roll to the right four times. Over the years, whenever Doris found the old milk crate where they kept rolled sets running low, she"d take the tub of clean utensils, slip into a booth near the door, and roll silverware, repeating her mantra again and again until, at last, the tub of utensils was empty and the crate filled with row upon row of perfect, white rolls. Napkin, knife, fork, spoon. Tuck, fold, roll. Deposit bundle.

