Our time at the volcano was amazing. We walked down into the crater itself, and I even braved a dip of my toes in the ice-cold water. We got to see the tiny wildflowers blooming on the crater’s sides, and we even got to see a gyrfalcon circling overhead. The hike was intense, and we kept moving for several hours. By the time we climbed back up and into Ivan’s truck, we were all panting, sweaty, and completely worn out. It was glorious. Ivan had told us the history of the volcano on our hike, and he was quite the naturalist. He told us the names, in both English and Icelandic, of the various flora and fauna we encountered. On the ride back to the city, he talked about the villages and communities we drove through. I was so taken by his casual but richly detailed touring style that I aske

