Riding through the vastness of these grasslands, with their wide view and soft ground, suits me. The sweet smell of the warming earth, the faint hum of a lone dragonfly, the swish of tall grass against the horses’ legs, the soft breeze billowing the thin fabric of my shirt against my back—it soothes all my senses and brings a little repose to my ever restless mind. My delight in riding these luscious planes must show, for when I catch Dendup watching me, he shakes his head. “Don’t want to get too comfortable, sister.” He gestures to the Cho La pass looming in the distance. “She looks pleasing, yet she’s deceiving.” His voice carries a wary edge as he stares ahead. My eyes follow his stare towards the magnificent mountain range. I’ve heard of Cho La’s two faces but can’t imagine them. “S

