With the shadows already lengthening, there’s not much time left in the saddle and I don’t mind. The boat frame has left its malign mark on my ribs, reminding me of the rough passage with every shallow breath I take. A fresh cup of tea and a warming stove—that’s what I’m looking most forward to now. Our lodgings have my prayers answered. The tea’s like it should be, rich and creamy. By the look of my slurping and chewing companion, the copious food’s undoubtedly of the same quality, but I’ve left my appetite on the billowing waves of the afternoon. I have no desire to dig in. With my taste for tea satisfied, my blanket’s the only comforting thought left. Fortunately, Dendup and Karma decide on an early night. Om Tara. The dreamless sleep has cleared all remainders of yesterday’s venture.

