38 The sixteen kilometre drive from Filoti to Agkidia, where the museum curator, Aristos Iraklidis, and his wife Rania owned a beautiful white house, took them half an hour. This was one of Day’s favourite roads, passing through the small town of Halki and the two hill villages of Ano Potamia and Kato Potamia. After Kato Potamia they turned onto the old Naxos-Halki road, off which Michael Moralis had believed something of great antiquity waited to be discovered. Agkidia, an old village, had recently become an expansive area of luxury tourist accommodation because of its distant views of the sea and Chora’s old Kastro. It was a matter of amazement to Day that the Iraklidis house remained serenely aloof from the influx of summer visitors. Aristos and Rania had created an oasis of restfulne

