Made
I began pacing the beach.
I was trying not to fret, especially in front of Jiarna and her girls, but I wasn’t ready or prepared to be competing, and in less than an hour’s time. I had thrown out there the option of one of the girls from Jiarna’s crew to compete in my place, but surprisingly Jiarna had stated she wanted me in the new crew, no questions asked.
We had woken this morning relieved to hear the news that the swell had simmered down enough that the girls’ crews were definitely going to be competing as they were rideable, but the heavy waves were still beginning to rise to tremendous heights again as they had done yesterday, gaining in momentum as time passed. I had never seen anything like this in its extremity in all my time as a surfer and living in LA. Even the surf bea
