Twenty-Three Anchoring outside a marina had another downside besides having to dinghy back and forth to town—every night at anchor the deck team had to take shifts. Seb and I spent less time together now. As Themis bobbed out in the harbor, I’d go to bed after we’d cleaned up from dinner service. Seb would take a nap in his own bed, do his watch in the middle of the night, and then sneak in to join me in my bed when he was off his shift. But one night I thought, Why go to bed? Instead I worked on my provisioning list and supplies for a little while in the crew lounge until everyone had gone to sleep except Toby, who was on watch. He passed through occasionally for a midnight snack or while doing his rounds. “Can’t sleep?” he asked me once. “Nah, not tired enough yet. Figured I’d get s

