With a surge of foam in the warm and clear waters, the ocean lifts me, and I stand, determined not to miss this wave several meters under my feet. With intoxicating speed, my board plays with the white edge, my hand caresses the water, and my face splits with a kid’s smile. Since our move to the ocean, I never miss my morning ritual: dawn, water, and surfing. Crisscrossing the tube that overtakes me, I swerve to the point of feeling my drifts slip off the edge. I wipe out in style and find myself being pummelled to death, laughing at having nothing more to prove and lacking the slightest constraint... except that of time. I mustn’t hang around. Amanda and Jo will be consecrating their vows this afternoon. Jo married!
Under a summer sun, back at the Pontiac, relieved to have tasted the Pac
