CHAPTER FIFTEEN
There was no mistaking the Kalalau trailhead. A tall metal post held three different signs, brown with yellow borders, that admonished us to pack out what we packed in, that gave distances, and that prohibited all animals but service animals. Propped beneath these, on the ground and leaning against the post, was a small whiteboard with handwritten letters that read, "Hanakapi’ai Beach / WARNING / Strong Currents / Do Not Enter The Ocean."
Conroy stood beside the post, facing us. Hands loosely gripping his pack’s shoulder straps, he told us, "All these cars tell me there are a lot of people here today, some on the beach and more on the trail. But the cars can’t stay overnight. So that means almost anyone on the trail is here only for the day. So we’ll see people along the
