31‘Good swell, mate,’ Vince said after consulting his surf conditions app. He pulled on his wetsuit, grabbed his board, and he and Deefer trotted off to the beach. The temperature of the Southern Ocean in June was a strong disincentive, but they got there to find several other surfers braving the cold. The icy shock of the water crashing against him as he paddled out took Vince’s breath away. He sat out the back to recover and wait his turn, watching the sun come up, then spun around, got onto a two-metre wave, and rode it all the way to the shore—even did a couple of slow cutbacks. What a start to the day!
When they got back home, Vince fed Deefer, had a long warming shower and a quick bowl of muesli and fruit, then boarded Benny, pulled out his phone, and punched in Elena’s number.
‘Mo
