Several hours later, Emma rode in her last wave and held her stomach as it growled loudly. She would have kept going, but she was starving, and hunger outweighed the need to keep surfing. She glanced at her watch and saw it was just past 1 p.m. She picked up the board, started walking to rinse off in the communal showers by the parking lot, and headed back towards Jack's.
"Hey girl, Waves looked great today." The same girl who had checked her out earlier took the board, and Emma smiled.
“Absolutely perfect. I would have kept going, too, but I forgot to eat this morning, and those waves were a workout. I went over on my rental–let me grab my bag and square up.” Emma said, but the girl touched her shoulder.
“You needed it. To right your ho’omaluhia∗. Don’t worry about it. You’re good he
