Walking Towards The Ocean

Walking towards the Ocean   This novel, where the visionary-metaphysical element is skilfully intertwined with the everyday, has as its main theme the disappearance of a protagonist - truth or illusion? - and it emerges, at the limit of the incredible, from an on the road and mental adventure: a journey that Domenico and Gabriella, free and curious spirits, backpackers and a great desire for nature, have made along a trekking route of about 900 Km. Destination: the Way itself and then the Finisterre Ocean, passing through Santiago de Compostela. With the scorching sun, the whipping wind and the heavy rain, the two, who have decided to live their lives to the end without being stopped by anything, advance trampling on grass and stones, arid and muddy terrain, asphalted roads that cross villages and city. They live in the most disparate situations and meet people of all kinds, maturing together, in continuous confrontation, step by step. Visions, fantasies: memories of other lives?   © Domenico Scialla 2010 – 2013 Edition 2021 Translation by Nevia Ferrara   With immense affection to Gabriella, great friend and travel companion       Many of the facts recounted here ‘really’ happened; others, however, are the fruit of my imagination   “Go and follow your rhythm, without ever detaching from it. This is the right thing, in my humble opinion!”   1. «It was the devil», says Father Xavier, turning to me, after a few moments spent in silence staring at the window. «He always tries to spoil good things, just like your Path to the Atlantic Ocean, Richardo.» I remember that tree with a demonic shape I saw between Saint Jean Pied de Port and the Orisson refuge: even if for a short time, it had upset me. Father Xavier sits next to me, takes my hands in his, and continues: «He is envious. Envious of that enthusiasm, of that faith that, even if I dare to call it secular, I read in your eyes and in Stefania's when you arrived here in Roncesvalles some time ago. I remember well, it was your second day on the Way. Ah! Stefania, Stefania, that poor and unfortunate girl, who knows where she is now; until a few days ago you were together and now…». He gets up and goes back to the window. «Now more than ever, your faith is the only way to overcome these terrible moments, son.» He sighs while keeping a humble and loving gaze towards me. «Embrace her intensely and hold her close to you, it is the only thing you can do now; I hope with all my soul that peace and serenity will flourish in you.» We hear footsteps in the next room and Father Xavier, opening a small wooden door, peeps out and calls Ahim, who joins us after a few seconds. He asks me and the Arab boy to have a few minutes of meditation with him, and then kneels at the feet of the Holy Virgin. He hears the song of the shepherds who go to the cave in the magical night and begins to pray: «Holy Virgin help our lives...». Slowly the tone of his voice is lowered until it turns into silence. Alas, on the other hand, he hears the call of the Muezzin and kneels towards Mecca, with his face on the ground and his arms forward; he recites some verses of the Koran in Arabic, among which I discern only the word Allah and, little by little, his voice also fades. I take the yoga position of the lotus by breathing deeply and, by pronouncing the Om, I soon feel enveloped in a feeling of well-being; I see myself floating in the Universe among a thousand colors and a harp sings a celestial melody, in which I recognize Albinoni's Adagio. Thus I perceive the embrace of Life and I recite some verses written by me a few years ago: «And now that the shadows in the soul are thinning out, a serene Light makes room in me and I live.» And I am quiet too. A sky dotted with stars has recently replaced a sunny and splendid day in mid-October, when I take leave of Father Xavier. I have to admit that our meeting made me feel better and gave me some peace. I take a tour, then sit on a bench in the square adjacent to the pilgrim's hostel, where I will sleep tonight, and then leave for Rome in the morning. I remember the afternoon when Stefania and I, for me St, arrived here and, in particular, the Spaniard from Seville, met at the Orisson refuge the previous day, together with a group of French people, a Dutchman with his wife and a Belgian girl, the only one whose name I remember: Marin. Right in this square, the Spaniard called us aloud «Italiani!» and smiled saying that he had already arrived a long time ago; then he showed us his blistered feet. We chatted about the first two days of the Way and he invited us to participate in the pilgrim function, indicating the place where it would take place shortly thereafter. We had already heard of it, it is renowned among walkers, but only he knew how to instill in us curiosity and desire such as to induce us to take part in it. I stare at the sky for a moment, then I sigh and take my mobile phone from my backpack in which I have the photos and notes of the Way to the Ocean with St. I start to consult them and relive every moment. 2. Together towards the Ocean Full of curiosity and eager for nature, St and I arrive at Saint Jean Pied de Port, by bus from Bayonne, coinciding with the tgv from Paris Montparnasse. Many gather here to start the Way to the Atlantic Ocean on foot or by bicycle. The path is quite simple, almost within everyone's reach. This Way, a UNESCO heritage site, although it was born in ancient times as a religious pilgrimage, has long been undertaken by most people out of simple curiosity, for sport, for the love of nature, for cultural reasons and, who knows, also for reasons known only by the unconscious. Many people decide to walk it all or in part, in one or more times and someone repeats it over time. There are those who do it alone - a strong experience from a meditative point of view - but the ideal would be to walk in two, maximum in three. You can always join others when you feel like it and detach from them at any time, without feeling connected to anyone. The bus stops in a parking lot not far from a medieval gate. We enter the town together with the other passengers, as if we were part of the same group and then, gradually, we split between the streets. St reads, in front of the houses and taverns, the prices of rooms and dinner menus, almost always written with colored chalk on slates. Usually you stay in rooms in private houses or albergue, they are the cheapest solutions. The albergue are hostels, there are private and municipal ones, the latter usually have only dormitories. In medium-sized centers and in cities such as Pamplona, the capital of Navarre, Burgos, León and in the capital of Galicia, Santiago, there are also hostal and pensión, ie modest hotels, and even luxury hotels. We knock on one of these houses and a middle-aged guy opens the door, then smiling and inviting us to follow him, tells us in French: «Welcome. I was waiting for you and your room is ready». We are surprised, he probably behaves like this with everyone, but we like his behaviour. The house extends over three small floors, which are accessed by a wooden spiral staircase that starts from the entrance: on the first floor there is the master apartment, on the second there are the guest rooms and on the third a living room and a breakfast room. The owner writes down our names in a notebook saying: «In order to get to Roncesvalles you have two alternatives: the valley-bottom route and the mountain route. The first route is less tiring, but also more monotonous; the other is more challenging, especially the first eight kilometers to the Orisson refuge, but it is the most beautiful. You go up to about 1400 meters and you can admire breathtaking views, in some places you may still find some snow». «I really think we'll opt for the mountain route, what do you think, Rich?» «Ok St, you have to grasp all the beauty around us.» «Wise decision. You could arrive in two days, stopping at the refuge; even if it were full, they will always find a place to sleep there, if anything you would sleep together with thirty other people, on the ground» he smiles «but this is also the Way, fantastic and adventurous. The next morning you could then travel the other seventeen kilometers to Roncesvalles.» 3. At breakfast, two oriental girls prepare us biscuits with jam and pour hot milk for us; we cut some fresh fruit for them. We can only communicate with gestures and big smiles. Before leaving, I stumble and risk falling down the ladder but St, who is behind me, luckily manages to hold me by the backpack. And after the narrow escape, the owner puts the sello on our credentials, to certify the beginning of this wonderful experience; He then takes two large shells from a bag, symbol of the Way, ties them tightly to our backpacks and, placing one hand on my shoulder and the other on St's, he wishes us: «¡Buen camino!». From this moment we will hear this exclamation many more times. A strong emotion pervades our soul and immediately we set out. Having decided to go slow, St and I are often alone: many join us, almost always exchange a few words with us, pass us and in a few minutes disappear on the horizon. We meet two Italians, the younger one has fuchsia glasses that certainly don't go unnoticed. «Is it still good?!» With Glasses tells us in a joking tone, repeating a phrase from St. St smiles at him. «Where do you come from?» Without Glasses asks us. «Me from Sicily, he from Campania» replies St. «We from Tuscany and I'm taking this brat to Salvation» continues With Glasses, laughing and staring at Without Glasses. «Let's hope so, then» I intervene. «Assuming we get to Santiago, given his age» With Glasses says, patting his companion. «You laugh! For sure it wasn't me to do one year in the gym to prepare for this Way» defends himself Without Glasses. All four of us burst into a loud laugh, then the two funny guys go on greeting us in unison. It is a really stressful period for me, due to the gallbladder surgery that I will have to undergo shortly and above all because of the mobbing I have been undergoing for some time at Lacondary s.r.l., the farm for which I work; in fact they want to force me to resign, because for them I am a dry branch - I am resisting long and hard, I have no alternative to get away from here; but I hope to find a solution as soon as possible: another job, a lottery win or that the books I have written will soon be successful -. This unique experience may do me good. St suggests that I detach myself from my life and live only this situation. It is cold and the weather is not good at all when we get to Orisson. It just stopped drizzling. While we consume our lunch, ham and rusks with honey, we evaluate whether to continue to Roncesvalles or stop and start again in the morning. A courteous and charming walker in her fifties warned us that from here it will take about five hours to walk and, apart from a fountain and a lot of beautiful nature, we won't find anything. It is almost three in the afternoon and, considering the clouds and our pace, which will take us at least six hours, we decide to leave tomorrow with more tranquility. Dinner is served in a stone dining room with a large dark wooden table in the center, surrounded by others of the same type for four people. At the back, in a large extinct fireplace, a copper pot hangs; coins are placed on the ledges and recesses of the walls, while the white ceiling is lined with beams of the same wood as the tables. I feel like I've gone back in time. The owner tells us that we can sit at one of the small tables or, if we want, the large one, together with other walkers.