Chapter 4 Buffets, the Appetite Slayers
621 Words
All-You-Can-Eat is likely an American invention, and it's a staple of bland commercial chains. But with Toronto's multicultural vitality, the big buffet idea is available in multiple variations. And many's the grad student who's been grateful to pad out a diet of KD and sidewalk sausages with an occasional binge at one of these:
• Fragrant lemongrass soup and unlimited shrimp chips are among the treats at Young Thailand (165 John St., 416-593-9291; 81 Church St., 416-368-1368, young-thailand.ca). Admittedly the pad thai gets a little limp on the hot table, but, hey, you can have as much as you like.
• It isn't shabby chic; it's just plain shabby. Nonetheless there's something compelling about the Chinese food buffet at Flamingo House Chinese Restaurant (446- 448 Parliament St., 416-929-5576). Maybe it's because so many people from the less monied parts of this neighbourhood are so pleased to have such bounty at these prices. (The lunchtime take-out is a steal.) There's always a good hot-and-sour soup and an honest fried tofu with green veggies. Lots of the other dishes are battered, deep-fried, and served in bright red sweet-and- sour sauce, but there's ice cream for dessert and, of course, fortune cookies. If you're making a special trip, call first, because they host a surprising number of private events.
• Indian food lends itself especially well to the buffet concept, and there are lots to choose from, although the menus are pretty standard. Expect to find steamed basmati rice, tender naan bread, and half a dozen meat or vegetable dishes. Dessert is most likely rice pudding or gulab jamun (small dough balls in a sweet, rose or cardamom-seasoned syrup). Some of the standouts are Sangam (788 Bay St., 416-591-7090), Haandi (1401 Gerrard St. E., 416-469-9696), Skylark, a haunt of Hawksley Workman (1433 Gerrard St. E., 416-469-1500), and Nataraj (394 Bloor St. W., 416-928-2925).
It's a great restaurant anyway, but Sushiman's (26 Richmond St. E., 416-362-8793) once-a-month, all-you-can-eat sushi nights ($26 per person at last report) are amazing. They normally fall on the last Saturday of each month (but may be rescheduled to coincide with New Year's Eve, for example). There are two sittings: 6 and 8 p.m.; of course, you must call for reservations.
ROOMS WITH A VIEW
Diners who consider the wait for
the CN Tower elevator to be too long have many other choices. For example, Chef Anthony Walsh presides at Canoe (66 Wellington St. W., 416-364-1212, oliverbonacini.com), where local and organic ingredients star atop the TD Tower. It's on the 54th floor, to be exact, and it looks south over Lake Ontario and east to the Niagara escarpment. Perched above the shoulder of the SkyDome, patrons oversee the Islands and watch planes approaching two airports, perhaps while enjoying a sunset drink. Oasis on the Lake (2161 Lakeshore Blvd. W., 416-259-3756) still has the brick archways, stucco walls, and exposed wooden beams of its earlier incarnation as Argentinian steakhouse Casa Mendoza. Almost invisible from the road, and set back amongst '50s bungalows on the notorious old motel strip, it's nestled on the curve of the bay, and allows for a unique view of the islands, the harbour, and the downtown core. (The menu is heavy-duty steak and seafood.) Perched on the cusp of the St. Clair escarpment, the renowned Scaramouche Pasta Bar/ Restaurant (1 Benvenuto Pl., 416-961-8011) reveals a cascading southward prospect over the centre of the city. But be warned: it's unquestionably upscale. Those whose pocketbooks don't stretch to the above suggestions can head for the elevators to the top floor of the Clarke Institute of Psychiatry (250 College St.). For the price of a modest cafeteria lunch, they'll enjoy a 360-degree panoramic vista from the university district, including the lake.
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