Since the legendary Earl first called for his meal to be served between slices of bread, humankind has developed endless permutations on the classic sandwich. Here are some unbeatable Toronto riffs on the theme.
• Hearty and juicy are understatements for the sweet veal and meatball sandwiches that they turn out at California Sandwiches (244 Claremont Ave., 416-603-3317. The drill is this: you line up at the little window inside the side entrance and place your order. It soon turns up, hot and foil-wrapped. Some people choose to dine in, but most prefer to eat on the run. A haunt of Maple Leafs players, it's also beloved by the local constabulary, so if you see a cop car parked out front you know it's not a B&E: just a craving for a cheesy, saucy, messy, meaty, yummy Mediterranean sandwich!
• There really was a Dangerous Dan, and his Queen/Broadview diner (714 Queen St. E., 416-463-7310) is a favourite of east-end carnivores (though he does offer five varieties of "Tree Hugger Burgers"). Besides a clotforming array of ribs and steaks, it's perhaps best known for the daunting Coronary Burger, featuring two half-pound beef patties, bacon, and cheese... topped off with a fried egg. Comes with fries, gravy, mayo, and pop. Anyone for a bypass?
• It's no secret that College Street's Bar Italia serves delectable Italian sandwiches, but only a few denizens of the Queen and Parliament area know about Peter's Cajun Creole Pizza (181 Parliament St., 416-368- 8099). When we first saw the sign, with its happy little alligator chefs, we thought: "Oh well... doomed." But Peter's excellent spicy pizzas have established him as a neighbourhood fixture. However, the real secret treat is his sandwiches, with fresh combinations of arugula, roasted peppers, eggplant, zucchini, capicollo, provolone, and other Italian favourites. Eat in (if any of the half-dozen or so seats are free) and it comes with a masterful mixed green salad with balsamic vinaigrette. All for as little as $3.751
SUSHI AND BEYOND
In Toronto, there seems to be a sushi
bar on every corner. If forced to
choose a favourite, we would have to
name Sushi On Bloor (515 Bloor
St. W., 416-516-3456) for freshness
and generosity - their "Sushi Silver"
is a good deal. Sushi Bistro (204
Queen St. W., 416-971-5315) has
an imaginative selection of giant
sushi rolls. (Then again, there's some
fun to be had by ordering the plastic-
wrapped packets at Sushi-Q in the
basement food court of the Eaton
Centre. It's not the best - and they
charge extra for ginger! - but eating in the milling throng with those giant video screens blaring adverts on two sides is as close as you can get to the Blade Runner experience... without the perpetual rain.) In a different price scale entirely is clubland's soigné Di.ferent By Edo (257 Adelaide St. W., lower level, 416- 977-8744), with its fusion-flavoured sushi, tempura, and seafood. Okonomi House (23 Charles St. W., 416-925-6176) serves no sushi whatsoever; instead they have a selection of eggy Japanese pancakes called okonomiyaki.